Bird watching

Spring has arrived early in Finland this year and so it is the perfect time to go out bird watching. There are around 450 different species of birds here, some are summer visitors, whilst others brave out the cold winters. As a guide I have only ever taken one group bird watching, but these tours are quite popular with visitors coming to Finland. I went with a group a couple of weeks ago  to one of the many nature reserves around Helsinki.

The best time to join one of these tours is early in the morning, our group arrived at the Viikki nature reserve at 6.30am and made our way to the observation platform arriving at about 7.00am. The group I joined were members of the Helsinki University in Viikki and they have made this an annual event for nearly ten years. All you have to take with you are warm clothes (it still gets rather cold at night and in the early morning), a thermos flask of hot coffee or tea, a pair of binoculars helps and perhaps a bird book for the inexperienced bird watcher (or Bonger) as they like to call themselves. A professor of the University organises these outings, who has been a bird enthusiast all his life and helps with naming the birds seen.

During a three hour period, 34 different types of birds were seen at the nature reserve. The reserve is made of marshland surrounded by tall reeds and a well maintained duck board path connects small woodland Islands together, before the path leads you to an estuary and out to the sea. So there is the possibility to see water as well as forest birds.

I did not manage to get any pictures of the 35 species of birds seen that day, so I decided that I would visit the country cottage the following weekend and see if I would have better luck there. For the interest of any bird watchers who may read this article, I shall list the birds seen at the end.

Once at the cottage it was not difficult to find birds, but it was a bit more difficult to photograph them! This Barnacle Goose, visits every year with about five or six others. Last year a pair had about six chicks, but we think that three of them were eaten by predators.

Whooper Swans are also common at the cottage, they seem to be very territorial and often there are large arguments if a stranger goes too close to another's territory. They breed very successfully as the picture suggests, already we counted about ten individuals on the lake with at least two breeding couples.

This Artic Tern is also a regular visitor to the lake, they have bred very well over the last few years and this year we have already seen about ten individuals. We often enjoy watching them diving for fish.

Pied wagtails have been nesting in the roof of the cottage for as long as I can remember. Every year they find the same place to nest, just in the eves of the roof.

Chaffinches are also common around the cottage, I managed to catch this one in a pine tree.

Lots of different species of owls also live in the area, I was lucky to see this one in the old barn, I believe it to be a Tawny Owl. Another bird often seen and heard at dusk is the Common Snipe, often seen and heard flying over the forest just as it is getting dark. Once again I have seen this bird for many years and they always seem to take the same route. Unfortunately I have not yet been able to get a photograph of it.

The experts tell me that the spring is three weeks early, and just to prove that the nesting season is already upon us this Blackbird has decided to start her family in the woodshed.

As promised earlier, here is a list of the birds spotted at the Viikki Nature Reserve.

1.Great Tit (Parus major). 2.Blue Tit (Parus caeruelus). 3.Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris). 4.Hooded Crow (Corvus corone). 5.Common Gull (Larus canus). 6.Black-headed Gull (Larus ridibundus).
7.Common Tern (Sterna hirundo). 8.Redwing (Turdus iliacus). 9.Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs). 10.Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus). 11.Goldeneye (Bucephala claugula). 12.Starling (Sturnus Vulgaris). 13.Herring Gull (Larus argentatus). 14.Mute Swan (Cygnus olor). 15.Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus). 16.Coot (Fulica atra). 17.Blackbird (Turdus merula). 18.Wild Duck (Anas platyrhynchos). 19.House Sparrow (Passer domesticus). 20.Barnacle Goose (Branta leucopsis). 21.Shoveler (Anas clypeata). 22.Whooper Swan (Cygnus cygnus). 23.Wigeon (Anas penelope). 24.Chiffhaff (Phylloscopus collybita). 25.Jackdaw (Corvus monedula). 26.Tufted Duck (Aythia fuligula). 27.Goosander (Mergus merganser). 28.Caspian Tern (Sterna caspia). 29.Wood pigeon (Columba palumbus). 30.Robin (Ertihacus rubecula). 31.Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis). 32.Canada Goose (Branta canadensis). 33.Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea). 34.Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula).

Silence please

Finns love nature, in fact they love nature almost as much as they love solitude and silence. Don't get me wrong, the Finnish people are very friendly and hospitable, but to be alone with ones own thoughts is highly treasured. Whether it be fishing or hiking, berry or mushroom picking in the forest or would you believe on a busy day in the middle of town. Many Finns will do anything possible to be alone even in a crowd, this can often be seen on public transport, for instance on a half full public bus.

Often you will notice when you get onto a public bus that everyone tries to find a seat where you do not have to sit next to anybody else. Often the whole bus is half empty with every seat taken next to an empty seat. Only when there is no other option do people sit next to a stranger, but then the choice of who to sit next too is often put down to skill. For example, does the person you are going to sit next too look as if they may try to talk to you? The best way to conquer this possibility is to sit down with out making eye contact, in fact during the whole journey, just look straight ahead as if there is something extremely important ahead. Even better text someone on your mobile phone, or in case you have no one to text, pretend that you are texting.

But really nine times out of ten there is no need to go to these extremes! Because if you are sitting on the bus and a stranger sits next to you, then you have your own measures to conquer the possibility of being pulled into unwanted conversation. You can play with your mobile if you have it to hand, or you can stare out of the window at some exceedingly important object thus avoiding any eye contact which can lead to conversations.

Of course if you really want to be alone on a public bus you can do what the lady in the picture is doing, sit on the aile seat and not next to the window. But this is a risk, as if the bus is full a stranger may have to ask "Excuse me, but is this seat taken?" This will mean that you have to acknowledge that you are not alone, and heaven forbid, you may find yourself having to answer. But this is not being rude or unfriendly, it is just a way to find solitude.

Ice fishing has its attractions, where often during the coldest of days you can see little dots of people sitting alone on the ice. They have their lines through a drilled hole in the ice and sit intently watching for the line for the slightest of movement for hours on end. It is the silence and solitude as much as the excitement of the hunt which attracts people to this sport.

Berry and mushroom hunting is another great way for Finns to find solitude and silence, hours alone in the forest is a great way to avoid those unwanted crowds and conversations. I remember not long after arriving here in Finland, I was told a joke which I think sums up the situation very well.

One day a wife was packing lunch for her husband, he had been invited by two of his friends to go berry picking in the forest and was not happy about it. "It will be a disaster" he complained to his wife, "all they will do is talk all day!" "Don't be silly, you will enjoy it in the forest" his wife replied. So the husband met his friends, and off they went for their day in the forest. In the morning one of the friends said, "I know a good place to find blue berries!" At mid-day the other friend said, "It is disappointing how few blue berries there are!" In the afternoon, the first friend said, "I am sorry that there were not as many berries as I had hoped for!" In the evening the husband returned to his wife, "Well, how did it go?" She asked. "As I had expected," moaned the husband, "They talked all day long!"

But what about this silence? It certainly has its attractions, the less you speak the more you see. If you look carefully at the photograph above, you will see an elk, pictured from a distance which is why the picture is not so clear. Elk are very shy creatures and although one of the largest animals in Finland they are not easily seen when crashing and talking through the forest. This Elk seemed unaware of us for many minutes until the crack of a branch sent it running back to the forest.

What does silence mean for me? Coming from the outskirts of a large town in England, my first encounter with Finnish silence was at the summer cottage. Late evening, with the sun just disappearing behind the forest, the silence was absolute. I have often heard the term that silence can be deafening, but did not understand properly what it meant until I experienced it here in Finland. There was absolutely no sound at all, not a car in the distance or a bird, not even the ripple of the lake, everything was just still and silent. The silence of Finland, silence please.

Green gold

With the feeling of Spring in the air we decided to visit the Summer cottage yesterday to check up on the state of the forest after the long but mild winter which we have just been enjoying.

Finnish forests are known here as "Green gold" because of the continuing importance our forests have in Finnish industry. Almost 80% of the Finnish landmass is covered by forests and the wood industry is one of the major sources of export. There are almost 30 different tree species here in Finland and our forest's are made up pf the three most common Spruce, Pine and Birch forests.

Although we own our forests, we are state funded which means that we get support from the state which goes towards the upkeep of our forest. Included in this support, we receive information and advice for upkeep of the forest. An inspector comes every few years to check that the forest is growing healthily and to give advice as to when or if the the forest has to be thinned, or if any other action has to be taken. In return for all this help, when any of our forests are felled the trees are sold to the state. A part of the money received goes towards the felling company and re-planting.

On Boxing day 2011, we suffered a very big storm here in South Finland and a lot of forests were blown down. Our forest did not escape the damage and we lost many trees. The average age of a forest to be felled is considered to be about 70 years, and as one of our forests was about that age we decided that it should be felled. This took place during the winter of 2013.

Trees are left growing to give seeds to the forest. Most of the trees felled were Spruce trees and it was decided that the Pine trees should be left.

The logs were then collected together on the field waiting to be taken away, most of the logs went to construction whilst others went to the paper industry.

The forest was re-planted in May 2013, it is important to remember that for every tree cut, two are planted. When checking the saplings this year, we found that they are nearly all growing well and have survived the winter.

Now that the saplings are established, the real work begins. In their early lives the saplings are what we call shade trees, which means they grow best in the shadows of other plants. But as the trees grow they need more light, so all unwanted vegetation has to be cut back so that the forest is pure. This will involve many hours of work but at the end of the day, it is more "Green Gold" for Finland.

Easter fires

Bonfires play a major part in two Finnish celebrations, the more popular is the Mid-Summer bonfire, whilst the Easter bonfire, lit on the evening of Holy Saturday.

Here in Finland, Easter Saturday or Holy Saturday used to be called Lanka Lauantai or roughly translated Thread Saturday. It is on this night that bonfires are burnt to bring luck for the summer and to ward away trolls, witches and evil spirits. Originally this was done only in certain parts of Finland especially Ostrobothinia, but now it has spread to most of the country. Today it is a fun evening out, but for the Ancient Finns it was a very important part of the folklore calendar.

 

The old book of traditions tells a few of the old beliefs associated with Holy Saturday, for instance it tells that the men folk of the village would spend the day collecting the wood to be burnt and stacking it on a high place that could be seen for kilometres. All the branches, logs, and any wooden implement broken over the wintertime, not forgetting the remains of the Christmas tree were placed on the stack. In the evening after Sauna the families would dress and gather by the stack ready to light the bonfire. The bravest would climb to the top of the stack and light the fire before climbing quickly down again. Feasting, dancing and all manner of celebrations would commence for as long as the fire burns. Sometimes the fire would last late into the night almost to the next morning.

Another tradition concerned the cattle, the old book tells that it was on Holy Saturday when the cattle should be shown the way home from the fields. If this is done then, during the summer the farmer could call the cows in the evening and they would be able to find their own way home without having to be fetched or herded.

Some stones and rocks were believed to be trolls, if a stone was suspected of being a troll, on Easter Saturday it was taken to the sauna and heated in the oven before being thrown into cold water. If it squealed or broke, then it was a troll, my wife's Aunt remembered doing this when she was a child.

Many people also remember their departed loved ones at Easter by taking candles to the cemeteries. This tradition is also done on Christmas Eve and All Souls day, sometimes the there are so many candles that the cemetery is as bright as daylight.

A visit to the Helsinki University Museum

With the weather not so good and time on my hands I decided to visit the Arppeanum Helsinki University Museum. The museum is situated in the heart of Helsinki and at the moment in a fine old building called the Arppeanum dating back to 1869. Unfortunately this will be my last chance to visit this fine old building for the time being, as the museum will end its tenancy on the 1.6.2014 and move to the University main building, opening if all goes well on the 26.3.2015.

On entering the museum you encounter a lovely old iron stair case which takes you to the 2nd floor and a small shop selling books and souvenirs. The entrance to the museum is free and as always during my visits here you are met by friendly welcoming staff. They used to have a nice cafeteria on this floor, but I found that this had already moved out in anticipation of the museum's move.

The museum itself starts on the 3rd floor, where you can find examples of chemistry labs and find examples of dentistry, medical collections and a fine mineral collection. Above you can see one of the Chemistry labs.

On the same floor I found this cabinet which contained meteorites, some of which had fallen on Finland over the years. Whilst there a group of people joined me and I overheard one man say, that we were looking at the oldest museum cabinet in Finland.

The next couple of rooms were filled with cabinets filled with all different types of rocks and minerals. There were crystals of all shapes, sizes and colours, I went looking for a golden nugget, although I did not find one, I am sure that they have one but there was so much to see.

The next room was full of bones and fossils, this superb example of Mammoth tusks were situated right next to the door as you go in. There were cabinets full of fossils, with larger fossils on the walls.

This large fossil was hanging on the wall amongst many others. There were examples of fish and plant fossils as well as an example of real Mammoth fur.

On the top floor I found an exhibition telling about the people living in Siberia, showing and telling about their way of life from the distant past to modern times. The picture shows what kind of clothes the Siberian people wore in the winter.

Also some of their customs and beliefs were also on show, here is an example of a Shaman or tribal witch doctor, with his drum. In a cabinet next to this picture was an example of a Shaman's drum.

On leaving the museum, I found that I had spent nearly 2 hours enjoying the many artifacts on show. I hope that the new museum accommodations will be as nice as the Arppeanum and also I hope that the authorities find a public use for the building, rather than shutting it off totally from the visitors eyes.

A pie in the sky

Underneath the Heron's nest restaurant

It looks a bit like a UFO, but this is the Heron's nest restaurant (Näköalaravintola Haikaranpesä) situated in one of Helsinki's districts called Espoo. Approximately only a 20 minute bus ride from the centre of Helsinki, the Restaurant has been developed from an old water tower, and began functioning as a Restaurant in 1968.

The tower itself measures 76 metres from top to bottom and has space for 150 guests. The restaurant section is surrounded by a balcony giving a view of the surrounding scenery of over 10 kilometres in every direction.

We visited the Restaurant for our Easter Sunday dinner, where we enjoyed a very nice buffet with a vast assortment of different foods to taste. Although with the weather being very rainy and windy we could not fully enjoy the scenery to its full potential.

My starter course consisted of different flavoured spiced herrings, fish pastes of different sorts, smoked herrings, spiced salmon, prawns and mussels. This was followed by either Lamb, chicken or beef with vegtables. The lamb was very nice, well cooked with an absolutely excellent tasting sauce. For desert, there was a wide range of cakes and sweeteners with coffee or tea. The staff were very friendly and hard working to give every satisfaction.

Seeing that the rain had slightly abated and a little more of the surrounding scenery came into view, I ventured out onto the balcony to record the surroundings. Although very windy and cold I did manage do walk one circuit of the tower before getting back inside and out of the cold wind.

We found the atmosphere very relaxed and friendly, staying for about four hours before making our way home again. The weather could have been better and plans are already being made to return in the summer when hopefully the scenery will live up to its full potential.

Some Easter traditions

With Easter fast approaching it is time to look into Grandma's old book of Finnish traditions again to see if there are any gems to be found. Today is known as Palm Sunday Eve, the day before palm Sunday which to the people of the past was the start of important Easter celebration preparations.

For the last few weeks the shops have been filling up with all sorts of Easter decorations, Easter eggs of all varieties have been appearing on the shop shelves. One of the places I always go to visit is the window of the Fazer cafe in the heart of Helsinki to enjoy the annual Easter display. As usual this year's display is not a disappointment.

Fazer cafe window, Helsinki

So what does the old traditions book tell us? In the olden days, the Saturday before Palm Sunday was thought to have been a very magical day and there were lots of superstitions and rituals which were associated with it.

For example, Children in the countryside would go out early in the morning to collect Pussy Willow branches. Once collected they would brig the branches home and decorate them with coloured bows strings, feathers and paper. The Mother would then take the branches to the cow shed where she would wave the branches and chant a spell for luck during the coming summer.

Today Children still collect and decorate willow branches and on Palm Sunday they go to peoples houses chanting a poem. The people in the houses then will give a sweet or a chocolate egg, in return for one of the decorated willow branches. Often the children are dressed as Witches, as Easter is believed to be the time when Witches roam the countryside. To American and British people, this will sound a bit like Halloween, I suppose it is in a way, except these Witches are not out to harm people but they do need rewarding for any luck they give to people's homes or farmsteads.

But a word of warning, the Witches were not welcomed by everyone, I found this little story about what happened when a Priest saw a Witch whilst out for a stroll one evening at Easter time.

 The preist saw the Witch flying overhead on her broomstick and he shouted "In the name of the Father and the Son and the Holy ghost!" The Witch fell from her broomstick and dissappeared, but the broomstick fell at the Preist's feet. He broke the broomstick in half and then took a knife and cut off the brush. The next church day, one of the old women from the village, hobbled into church on sticks with a broken leg, and all her hair had fallen out!

The weather was very important to the people of the past, especially in the countryside and they were always looking for any predictions and clues as to how the year will be. They would have already been hoping that tomorrow on palm Sunday would be fine and warm which would mean that there would be a warm summer. For example, if it was a bright Sunny morning they could sow the fields early. If it was a cloudy dull morning and a clear sunny afternoon, they should sow the fields late. But if it was sunny and bright all day on Palm Sunday they could sow the fields when they liked, it would not matter as the seeds would grow strong and the harvest would be a success, "even if they sowed under stone".

Statues and Seagulls

When walking around Helsinki on a sunny morning, one of the things that comes to mind is how many statues you come across. Actually Helsinki has around 400 public statues, you seem to come across one at every turn, from mice to giant pike fish. The people of Helsinki love their statues and it seems impossible to see them all in a mornings walk, you need to reserve a day or two if you want to see them all.

But it is not only the people of Helsinki that love their statues, being next to the sea we also have a lot of Seagulls, who also enjoy our statues. The Seagulls use the statues more as a vantage post, somewhere to meet and watch the people go by. I decided on this sunny morning to take a short 20 minute walk around the centre to see how many Seagulls on statues I could photograph, and here is the result.

Alexander II Senate Square

My first sighting came on the Senate Square and the statue of Alexander II in front of the Helsinki Cathedral. From here I took the short walk to the Esplanade looking for more statues.

Johan Ludwig Runeburg, Esplanade

It took less than 10 minutes to find Statue plus Seagull number two, although in that short space of time I did pass at least two other statues without their resident Seagull.

Fact and Fiction, Esplanade

With my self imposed time limit of 20 minutes almost up, I was thrilled to find this double success a little further along the Esplanade. The two Seagulls are sitting statues dedicated to the Finnish writer Zachris Topelius.

So four Statues and Seagulls photographed in 20 minutes, it could have been five but that was the one that got away as I was focusing the camera.

Two Headed Eagle, Market Square

I did come across this Seagull on the Market Place and it was within time, but I decided that this is a monument rather than a statue. I so perhaps I will not count this one, but you could say we have rather a lot of Statues and Seagulls in Helsinki.